

Watch serviced in 2024 and in perfect working order rare in this aesthetic condition Powered by a beautiful three-counter movement, the Venus 178, these chronographs provided the perfect basis for designing the ultimate model in the Lip Genève range. Despite the absence of a rotating bezel, the resemblance to the Avi Copilot is striking: the Lip Genève's hands are identical to those of the Breitling, and the dial, with a few minor details, is also modeled on that of its cousin. The latter, like the Navitimer, was distributed in France with the dual Breitling Lip signature, proof that the partnership was proudly embraced by both parties. Against a satin black background, only a sober minute track, long luminous hour markers in the style of the Rodania Geometer and Omega Speedmaster, and the simple inscriptions lip Genève followed by a discreet Swiss made t at the edge of the dial at 6 o'clock stand out. Slightly concave, the counters appear on a slightly silvered white background and are traversed by fine hands pointing to minute tracks, again without unnecessary embellishment. The overall effect is contradictory: a kind of spectacular simplicity that contributes greatly to the irresistible charm of this watch... With no bezel, the Lip nonetheless offers a large case (38 mm in diameter excluding the crown) and a wide dial opening, all of which enhances readability and presence on the wrist. With its long lugs spaced 21 mm apart, this is a watch that appears larger than it is when worn. One of the distinctive features of the Lip Genève chronograph is the monobloc structure of its case. The back is therefore integral with the middle, and the watch is opened from the battery compartment side: using a special tool, the plexiglass must be skillfully "popped" off and the inner workings extracted. The positive consequence of this is that the integrity and water resistance of the watch are much better guaranteed. The downside is that access to the mechanics is more delicate and not something to be attempted lightly... Bearing the Lip coat of arms (based on the coat of arms of the city of Besançon), it also contains a double warning to amateur watchmakers, linked precisely to the monobloc structure of the case. The most obvious is at the bottom: "open by the glass," it kindly advises. The second is on the left, near the crown: a small diagram shows the shape of the broken stem used to remove the mechanism. Conclusion Like others, the 1970s marked a time of crisis for the Besançon-based brand. Although it managed to remain profitable, Lip Genève had to close in 1972—as did Lip Italy—and this was, unfortunately, only the beginning of the end for the French company, whose tumultuous liquidation is well known. All that remains of the brief era of Lip Genève, the Swiss dream of a great French watch brand, are a few very beautiful models. The "penguin" chronograph is undoubtedly the most spectacular and sought-after of these. However, it should not overshadow other models that are less sporty and more elegant, all of which, despite their Swiss stamp, bear witness to one of the greatest successes of French watchmaking.