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Watch Details Brand: Universal Genève Model: Polerouter De Luxe Ref. 10357-3 Case Number: N/A Serial Number: 184XXXX Movement Details Movement Number: Cal. 215 Type: Automatic (Microtor) Jewels: 28 Complications: N/A Case Material: 18K YG Diameter: Approx. 34mm Lug to Lug Length: Approx. 43mm Lug Width: Approx. 18mm Bracelet Material: Genuine Teju Lizard Length: Approx. 8 Inches Overall Additional Information Gender: Male/Unisex Dial Color: Originally black, patinated to a deep chocolate brown Crystal: Plastic Year of Manufacture: Approx. 1956 Condition: Pre-Owned Functionality: Movement runs and sets as it should, but has not been bench tested for precise accuracy. We always recommend servicing for daily use and timekeeping accuracy. Box & Papers: N/A Notes This Universal Genève is an exceptionally rare watch that we are very proud to offer. Part of the iconic Polerouter line designed by Gérald Genta, it comes from the same mind that would later give the world the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus, which only makes this mid-century design feel that much more important. In the De Luxe spec, with an 18k solid gold case and a beautifully tropical dial, this example represents one of the most compelling ways to experience the Polerouter design. It features a 34mm 18k yellow gold case in good condition. It shows expected scratches and small dings throughout and appears to have received a polish at one point in its life. Its most noticeable wear is on its case back, where case-opening tools have left some visible marks. Even so, it retains a clean presence on the wrist, with that satisfying heft you expect from solid gold. Its all-original dial is the star of the show: what began life as a black dial has taken on a gorgeous tropical patina, now reading as a deep chocolate brown that pairs beautifully with its yellow gold case and chocolate leather strap. It wears its original gold handset and matching gold chapter ring, the latter showing fine scratches across its surface consistent with age. It carries its applied “U” logo and crisp printed brand and model text that remain sharp and legible, even with the gentle aging they have picked up over time. Its crown has been replaced with a factory yellow gold-plated variant that shows plating loss on its top surface. This piece is powered by the iconic 28-jewel caliber 215 Microtor movement, a movement that helped define Universal Genève’s reputation for slim, innovative automatic watches in the 1950s. It is fitted with a brown genuine teju lizard leather strap and gold-colored buckle. Its crystal sits in good condition, showing some scratches to its surface. Overall, this Universal Genève Polerouter De Luxe checks just about every box for a collector looking for a top-spec, characterful example from the now-revived brand: solid 18k case, Genta design, Microtor movement, and a killer tropical dial. Rich in tone and personality, this is the kind of Polerouter that does not come around often, and it will be a tough one for us to let go of.
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